To understand the "flaws" one must understand some basic fluid dynamics. As a mechanic that's filled numerous radiators, I'll do my best to explain. The air and churning noises are easy to trace back to the installer. These pumps are lift pumps. That's all they do. The canister itself is gravity fed. The pump has very little suction, if any at all. All it is designed to do, is lift the water back into the tank. You MUST buy bulk vinyl hose (1/2" ID; 5/8" OD) from your home improvement store. This hose will prove to be slightly larger than included.. it will work (I'll say more about that soon). There just isn't enough included. And DO NOT (Bold, underscored, italicized) DO NOT use the hang on back brackets. If you want hang on back, buy a HOB. I can read the reviews, and see that people are not giving the water enough "drop". What I mean is, the hoses it comes with, aren't long enough. You need to be able to have the filter far enough below the water intake, that gravity takes over, and effectively siphons the water from the tank, into the canister. Also, invest in some 90 degree, 1/2" hose connectors. Install those as the inlet and outlet exit the tank. You should make a "U" of 90 bends, that will point towards the floor. You'll need a small piece of connecting hose. Secure these connections with zip ties. Two or more. Now, the important part--make sure your canister is mounted as low as reasonably possible. Mine rests on the floor of a stand that is 28" tall. My tank is 15" tall. I have 43" of "drop". I also don't have any air bubbles in my hoses. This thing has more than enough power to lift two feet. In fact, I recommend you also buy a pair of 1/2" ball valves from your favorite home improvement store. I bought "shark bite" variety that had three barbs. I put a small zip tie between each of the barbs to secure the connection. As, 1/2" aftermarket hose fits very loosely. If I were to do it again, I'd use a pair of ball valves as close to the pump motor as possible. This idea is borrowed from the flow control valves found on other canister filters. The intended use of two would be, when you're trying to open the canister for maintenence. You can close both valves, disconnect the pump head as a unit from the canister with the clasps, and have minimal spillage. All while never touching your hose connections. This should also maintain your siphon. The canister should automatically refill when you open the ball valves--if the tank is full. You can use the "out" side ball valve to fine tune the force made by the output. Keep the input ball valve full open--unless maintaining. All in all, exactly what I was looking for. And I was kind of intrigued to see some of the ideas in the box. The HOB brackets are a good idea, just not practical. The included spray bar is nice. As is the "stream" output nozzle. It's basically as good as it gets for it's price and place in the market. Another $25 in materials and you have a setup that will rival some of the bigger names, with no actual modifications of parts. Add a $45 set of Lilly pipes and you have a top of the line piece. I don't think you'll make a more recognized name do that for anywhere near the small sum you'd have in this Finnex. This is definitely a DIY'ers treat. Little changes make a big didifference. You get to give yourself a pat on the back... feel like an engineer for a week or two. =)
